SURFING, WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO LIFE?

This is somewhere near Donald Trump's house, it is a secret spot known only by the locals. My brother took this shot as he has with the majority of the surfing photos of me.

Getting to this surf spot is always an adventure, you either have to climb down a steep, narrow & fragile trail located on a crumbling 200 foot shale cliff or walk under the fragile crumbling 200 foot shale cliff or play it safe & waste your paddling muscles paddling about a mile an a half getting there. Should you have chosen getting here by land there was no guarantee that your towels, car keys, girlfriend etc. would still be there after getting out of the water due to the frequent landslides that are common place along this peninsula (OK, maybe the girlfriend left on her own).

— victor m maldonado